Boston’s Back Bay – A Reclaimed Neighborhood

This is the third in the series of visitor’s guide to Boston’s neighborhoods, and today I’ll be highlighting the Back Bay.

There are 23 neighborhoods comprising Boston.

But most of these neighborhoods fall outside the average visitor’s spots to visit. In previous posts I’ve covered Beacon Hill and the North End.

Today I’ll be talking about the Back Bay neighborhood. Back Bay together with Beacon Hill comprises the most expensive real estate and shopping complexes in Boston, and the tallest skyscrapers.

History of Back Bay:

The Back Bay of Boston is reclaimed land from the sea. The name Back Bay describes the tidal flats of the Charles River and what surrounded old Boston up to the mid-Nineteenth century. Reclaiming the land with fill from the suburbs in the west took about 25 years working round the clock.

A special railroad was built to bring the fill in each day from the suburbs and the Irish came over in droves to provide much of the labor. The tide of Irish that transplanted to Boston for the project originally populated the North End, but stayed to create the great community of Irish that is Boston’s heritage today.

The growth of Back Bay over the last 125-years has seen the northern section dominated by residential Victorian brownstone buildings and the southern part with shopping malls and luxury hotels. Many of Boston’s most striking and imposing buildings such as Prudential Center, John Hancock Tower, Boston Public Library and Trinity Church at Copley Square are located in the Back Bay.

Views from the Top:

To get the best perspective of the Back Bay you’ll need to rise above street level. In my view this is best achieved by taking in The Pru experience. Though the John Hancock Tower remains Boston’s tallest building the observation tower on the 60th floor has been closed since the attacks of September 2001. But the view of Back Bay and the harbor area from the top of the Prudential Tower does not disappoint, and together with the street level Prudential Center shopping mall provides visitors “The Pru” Boston experience.

The Pru building was completed in 1964 and at the time was the tallest building in the world outside New York City. But today its height is surpassed by many other buildings in the U.S. and its claim to fame today tends to be the discussion centered on its “ugliness.” Leave it to Bostonians to create debate around their own architecture.

Commonwealth Avenue, Newbury Street, and Boylston:

The boundary of Back Bay on the North side is the Charles River, and the street layout moving South to North is designed after the Paris style and with none more striking than the long tree-lined central mall of Commonwealth Avenue. A stroll along the avenue passes small parks and fashionable large town houses.

Running parallel to Commonwealth Avenue is Newbury Street. This street is famous for its $200 haircuts and boutiques where you can spend a year’s salary on one dress or suit. Though expensive, it is comparatively quiet – maybe natural selection of price weeds out the vocal and brash bargain hunters – if you’ve ever experienced Filene’s bargain basement then you’ll know what I mean.

If the Back Bay has a main thoroughfare it surely must be Boylston Street – busy and brash its high energy. From the eastern border of the Public Gardens the street is lined with office blocks, popular shops, café’s, restaurants and bars. It traverses straight-lined through Copley Square and on to Hynes Convention Center and Berklee College of Music and the Performing Arts Center. A stroll along this street takes you through the many worlds of Back Bay.

Copley Square and the Christian Science Center:

If Quincy Market and the Freedom Trail occupy many visitors morning and early afternoon tour hours, then late afternoon and early evening belongs to Copley Square. During the summer free concerts and entertainment are usually on-tap in the square.

In addition the square is also home to the highly-acclaimed Boston Public Library – take a walk inside to view the architecture and fine arts on display in the galleries. The eye-catching and architecturally David and Goliath opposites of Trinity Church and John Hancock Tower bordering two edges of the square somehow doesn’t seem out of place. Throw in the abundant luxury hotels in the area and Boston’s largest shopping mall in Copley Place, and you have a full itinerary to complete your Boston experience.

It’s no wonder that in this end of Boston, all roads lead to Copley Square.

At the Pru end of Back Bay, and almost “hidden” is the world administrative headquarters of the Christian Science Church. The church buildings and reflecting pool along with the world-famous Mapparium three-story walk-through globe have attracted 10-million visitors since it opened in 1935.

How to Tour Back Bay:

The most popular way to tour the Back Bay is on foot. You will travel more miles than on the Beacon Hill tour but it is a larger area and more diverse. If you want to see all the points of interest allow a full day, especially if shopping will be in the equation. If you want to shop – forget Downtown Crossing – this is the area to visit.

Another option is touring on a bike. Boylston Street is about the only street you’ll need to be careful around, but if you’d prefer to tour the area with a group then consider taking in the popular Urban AdvenTours City View Bicycle Tour, where you’ll get to experience many of the sites discussed here.

You may have to return to do The Pru and stroll along the avenues and streets mentioned in this article, but you’ll get a feel for what makes the Back Bay tick, and why it’s one of Boston’s most popular destination magnets for visitors.

If you have more time to visit then check out further destinations for Boston vacations here.

Cliff Calderwood
Executive Editor
New England Vacation Guide